Day 30 – Wed 09 Jul, 14, Lille (France)

July 09, 2014

Forecast: 13-16 deg C, showers and a thunderstorm; Listed distance: 40km; Actual distance: 46km; Cumulative distance: 1190km; Av speed: 16.7 km/h; Max speed: 31.5 km/h; Wind: NW, 14-20 km/h; Start time: 9am; Stop time: 1pm; Ride time: 2h43m

Well it wasn't raining this morning when we woke up but it may as well have been; the sky was very grey. Had our usual breakfast then put on the wet weather gear and rode to Fromelles. There are two sites there - the new cemetery (Pheasant Wood) for those recently identified bodies and a museum, and then VC Corner about 2k down the road. By the time we got to Pheasant Wood, it was drizzling which was more annoying than anything really. The museum is quite well done and is all about what they discovered in a mass grave in Pheasant Wood and how they went about identifying the bodies.

By the time we left there to go to VC (Cobbers) Corner, the drizzle was heavier and the wind had come up as well so it was now cold as well as wet. We pushed on anyway, a shame to come all this way and not see VC Corner. At VC corner, there is a life-size bronze statue of a digger carrying a wounded soldier. The inspiration for the statue came from a story of a Sergeant who used to go out and carry back the wounded. "Don't forget me Cobber," was the words he heard one day. Also at VC Corner is an Aussie cemetery and memorial with a lovely rose garden and a remembrance wall. There are no headstones there because most of the 410 who died in the area could not be identified. Fromelles is so significant because it was the biggest loss of Aussies in battle in one day ever, a staggering 5,533 brave souls. Very sobering thought that so many men who each had a family waiting for them back home were killed in that one attack on 19/20 July 1916. We rode back to the motel in the rain without too much to say. All these sites are being done up for the anniversary on 19-20 Jul. The headstones were being washed, gardens weeded, and lawns mowed.

On our way home we had a lovely little tailwind which helped us along very nicely and we were home before we knew it, still cold and wet though. We changed into warm, dry clothes before heading back out for lunch. We didn't get far in our search as just outside the hotel is an escalator with an eating place called Flunch at the top. Kind of like a Sizzler, where you order your main ingredient then help yourself to veggies, chips, etc. Greg had roast chicken and veggies, and Wendy had chicken nuggets and chips! Probably should have had the roast chicken though! Then it was time for a nana nap.

We cleaned up the bikes a bit and Greg oiled his. He then went for a walk to the nearest bike shop to buy some brake pads for my rear brakes. Wendy had had trouble with them for a couple of days and Greg had said "no there's still a fair bit left", but then today he said it would be best if they were changed. With all this rain, it's probably a good thing. Whilst Greg was buying bike goodies, Wendy was researching hotels for our stay in Ghent. Not cheap, but found an Ibis and booked it.
Then it was time for dinner, and as it was still raining and miserable we decided on the same place as we had lunch as we would not have to go outside and get wet. Wendy had a very nice piece of faux filet with veggies and Greg had roast chook again with more veggies.

Greg decided it would be nice to go to Le Grand Place to photograph the lights through the rain. So, out came the rain jackets and off we went. It was probably quite a silly thing to do as we got a bit wet. We knew it was windy but didn't realise just how bad it was until we got to the square and were nearly blown away. So it was a hasty retreat back to the warmth and dryness of our hotel room.

Lille is the first city in this part of France we've come across with decent cycle paths, which surprised us. Granted some cities have had paths but 5-10km out of town they become non-existent. We hadn't seen many touring cyclists at all up to now in France, now we know why. It was so relaxing being on a cycle path instead of mixing it with the trucks, buses and cars, particularly when it's raining and / or windy. Anyway, although sad and sobering visiting all the cemeteries, we enjoyed the day's riding, despite the weather.